23rd December – The Call of the Hill
The bus ride to Thiruvannamalai took around two hours. As we approached the town, the first thing that greeted us was the majestic Arunachala Hill, standing silent and powerful at the edge of the sky. The energy shifted—there was a sense of reverence in the air.
After checking in and freshening up around 4:30 PM, we headed toward the Arunachalesvara Temple. Even in the evening, the sun blazed above us. It was the last day of the Karthigai Deepam festival, and the temple was overflowing with devotees. We joined the long, winding queue—four hours of anticipation, heat, and devotion. Finally, we had darshan of Lord Shiva around 10:00 PM. It was beyond words—a moment etched into memory.
24th December – Climbing Towards Silence
We woke up by 6:00 AM, eager to climb Arunachala Hill. Morning light fell softly on the town, and the Annamalaiyar Temple glowed with golden beauty. As we approached the Raja Gopuram, crowds had already started to gather. The path to the hill was alive with energy.
Our first stop was Virupaksha Cave, but it was still closed (opens at 8:30 AM), so we continued our ascent. Next was Mulaipal Theertham, followed by a peaceful wait near Skandasramam, which also opens at 8:30. Beside the ashram is a theertham (sacred spring) where many pilgrims bathe. I sat quietly, simply absorbing the presence of the place.
Soon, a French couple joined—both yoga teachers in their home country. We chatted for a while near the water, a simple connection in a sacred space. Around 9:00 AM, we entered Skandasramam, where people had begun meditating in silence. The stillness felt sacred, so we quietly started descending.
On the way down, we stopped again at Virupaksha Cave—now open—and then visited a small Shiva temple further below. Every step on the hill felt like an inward journey, a gentle call to be present.
A Temple That Burns with Light
Arunachalesvara, or Annamalaiyar, is worshipped here in the form of Agni Lingam, symbolizing fire—one of the five elements. The divine feminine, Parvati, is revered as Unnamalai or Apitakuchambal, and represented by the Agni Yoni. Together, they represent the merging of consciousness and energy.
The temple features four majestic gopurams (gateway towers), with the East Gopuram standing tallest at 66 meters, built by Sevappa Nayakar of the Madurai Nayakar dynasty. It’s one of the tallest temple towers in India.
The temple complex spans 25 acres, housing numerous shrines and mandapams (pillared halls). Among them, the thousand-pillared hall, built during the Vijayanagara dynasty, is a marvel of symmetry and devotion.
The temple's roots go deep—the earliest masonry structures date back to the 9th century Chola period, with major contributions by the Sangama, Saluva, and Tuluva dynasties of the Vijayanagara Empire.
Ramana Maharshi’s Presence
No journey to Arunachala is complete without the silent presence of Sri Ramana Maharshi, whose life revolved around this sacred hill. maharshi lived and meditated in Virupaksha Cave and Skandasramam—places we walked to, sat in, and felt the lingering energy of realization.
Walking through Thiruvannamalai is like walking through time, silence, and soul. The temple, the hill, the people, and even the heat—all combine into a sacred alchemy. This was more than a trip. It was a return—to something deeper, older, and infinitely still.
“By thinking of Arunachala, one attains liberation.” – Ramana Maharshi
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